What was it that held the Swedish psyche in thrall to a fragrant, saffron-coloured, umbrella-shaped fungus? Throughout our time in Sweden, we had been struck by nature’s ability to exert a profound influence on ways of life.
Its mutations and seasonal shifts were an endless source of fascination and wonder, reflecting the immutable force of the earth’s rhythms while simultaneously providing, quite spontaneously, the next source of activity and amusement.
Just as seas of reddening evergreen leaves had given rise to bilberries, so the forest floor now proffered the challenge of sighting these modest but beguiling mushrooms among the carpet of leaves safeguarding the ground against the approaching winter cold.
These beautiful, golden mushrooms hold a magnetic sway over those who seek them. Swedes pace silently and stealthily through the forest in search of chanterelles, their eyes peeled for a tell-tale glimmer of gold.
Particularly rich seams of mushrooms are guarded jealously, so a walk in the forest becomes a kind of cat-and-mouse game. The Swedish desire for personal space not to be invaded feels more palpable than ever. This pursuit feels like a mission from ancient times, as you push ever deeper into forests carpeted with thick, squidgy layers of moss, lichen and leaves, with shafts of light filtering down through the high canopy of pine and birch trees.
This is not a pastime for the faint-hearted. It requires incredible patience and persistence, combined with an almost obsessive urge to keep going in search of the elusive prize. It is also a chance to bond with Sweden’s pristine landscape and to escape completely from the noise of modern life.
Immersed in the forest, little seems to have changed for centuries. You can almost imagine the tiny creatures from Elsa Beskow’s delightful children’s books, or the occasional Norwegian troll, passing by. Strong navigation skills are essential too, as the dense forest can be deeply disorientating in the absence of open land or clear landmarks. As so often in Sweden, it becomes a question of surrendering yourself to nature.
The rewards of this patient quest are a basket filled with beautiful chanterelles, each with its own unique markings and shape. Your chest swells with pride as you head homewards for the next stage of the ritual: the painstaking process of sorting and cleaning each mushroom to remove grit, twigs and lichen. It brings the same sense of triumph as returning from climbing a mountain or carrying home an impressively large fish you have caught.
Then comes, of course, the most gratifying part of all. Large quantities of delectable chanterelle soup are prepared, rich with slightly smoky, nutty undertones and an extraordinary depth of flavour. Chanterelles are also the perfect addition to creamy sauces, paired with onion or shallot and a touch of Swedish honey mustard. Few things feel as comforting or warming on a cool evening as autumn begins to take hold.
So, it is off to the forest. Take a basket, plenty of time and a keen eye. Be cautious of false friends and read carefully before you set out, so that you return home with the real prize rather than an impostor.
About the Author
Alison Allfrey is a British writer, linguist and communications consultant who lived in Stockholm from 2012 to 2015. She published So Sweden – Living Differently, a memoir of her time in Sweden and a source of inspiration for expatriates living there, in October 2019. The book is available on Amazon. Her work has also appeared in The Local, Nordic Style Magazine, Sverige Magasinet and fika-online.com. Alison lives with her family near Winchester in the UK. She is an avid traveller and loves exploring other cultures.
One response to “September – Time for the Swedish Forest”
Hi! Do you know where the picture that is at the top of this article was taken, or who took it? It looks beautiful.